Superpotent Anti-Aging Ingredients Backed by Science

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anti aging

I recently wrote an article for Medelita about anti-aging, and I wanted to share it with all of you today! Hope this helps to kickstart your anti-aging regimen into high gear this upcoming season.

As we get older, our skin undergoes a multitude of changes that result in sagging skin lined with wrinkles and dark and light spots. Preventing these changes has grown into a million dollar industry with so many different products out there that claim “anti-aging.” But what really works? To figure out what ingredients are actually effective, we need to dive down into the molecular changes in the skin.

There are two types of aging, one that happens naturally with age and one that is caused by the sun.

As we age, our skin loses collagen and thins. Gravity and repetitive movements of our facial muscles in our daily expressions start forming wrinkles as we lose elasticity, or the ability of the skin to snap back into its original shape. We also lose hyaluronic acid, a powerful humectant that allows us to retain moisture in the skin. The sun also plays a huge role in photoaging, causing discoloration in light and dark spots, wrinkles, rough leathery texture, and small superficial blood vessels.

One of the key strategies to combat skin aging is prevention. Now that we know that the sun causes skin changes, we can start protecting our skin from UV radiation at an early age. There is no “right time” to start using sunscreen; I wish I had started as a teen!I recommend using SPF 30 broad-spectrum (blocking UVA and UVB) sunscreen daily, whether it’s a sunny day or a cloudy day, because UV radiation penetrates through all the time. Remember to reapply every 2 hours if outside under direct sun, and to try to avoid prolonged sun exposure during peak hours such as 10 am to 3 pm.

Side note: myths about sunscreen

I’ve heard some patients say they are concerned about the safety of sunscreen ingredients; I’ve taken a critical look into the literature and found that many of these myths about sunscreen components are just that, myths, without scientific basis (more on that here). Once you are comfortable with the idea of daily sunscreen application, you have to choose a sunscreen that’s right for your skin type (more information on that here).

Skincare ingredients to look for

Practicing sun safety is not only great for anti-aging, but it also helps decrease your chances of getting skin cancer, which has far greater implications for your health. Aside from prevention, there are a few other key ingredients that I like to keep in my anti-aging regimen.

First off, there are retinoids, or Vitamin A.Retinoids are on every dermatologists’ bathroom counter, a secret weapon against aging of sorts! It has an important role in dermatology because of its comedolytic properties, meaning it breaks up comedones that you seen in acne. Studies have shown that topical application of retinoids result in new collagen formation and increased epidermal thickness, as well as clinical improvement in wrinkling, dark spots, rough skin, and skin texture.Dermatologists can prescribe you retinoids in gel or cream format, and the FDA recently approved Adapalene 0.1% gel for use over the counter.

The main side effects are sun sensitivity and irritation, and you must NOT use it if you are pregnant or trying to conceive, because it can potentially cause harm to the developing fetus.

When you start out, apply a pea sized amount every other night and slowly build up to nightly as tolerated. If your skin gets too dry and irritated, which is the most common side effect, mix the retinoid with lotion or use some over the counter steroid cream to calm down the redness.

If you want to try retinoids but don’t want to go the prescription strength route, you can buy over the counter products with retinol, a slightly different formulation of vitamin A, which take a bit longer to work, but may be more gentle with less side effects for those starting out.

Hyaluronic acid water

Give your skin some moisture with compounds containing hyaluronic acid!

Another helpful ingredient in anti-aging is hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring humectant in your skin that helps you retain an insane amount of water. One gram of HA can hold up to 6 LITERS of water! It doesn’t help us that we lose hyaluronic acid as we age, meaning our skin gets more dry and wrinkled faster. By choosing topical creams like serums or ampoules with HA, you can help replenish your supply.

Older patients can also consider injections of filler made from HA, which deposits the HA deeper in the skin mimicking naturally occurring HA to get a more youthful appearance. This is only temporary though, as the body will break up the injected HA over time and carry it away in the bloodstream.

The power of antioxidants

Citrus

Lastly, antioxidants can play a big role in helping to reduce and even reverse sun damage. UV radiation causes reactive oxidative species to be generated in the skin, causing damage to the deeper structures. Fat soluble Vitamin E (also known as tocopherol) helps reduce inflammation in the skin and accelerates repair from sun damage. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is an all-star in anti-aging, proven to even out skin tone, help with DNA repair from photodamage, and assist with collagen production.

The two vitamins together have added effects, and both appear to be stronger when applied topically rather than ingested orally. Look for sunscreens or serums with Vitamin C or E (or both!) to help protect against sunburns and help with skin repair from the sun’s damaging rays.

All of these ingredients can be used at any age, and it is never too early to start investing in a good anti-aging regimen! What products do you use?

7 Comments on Superpotent Anti-Aging Ingredients Backed by Science

  1. Paul Vella
    November 21, 2016 at 1:58 pm (6 months ago)

    Hi Dr. Joyce, I really loved this post! We met at show in NJ. Can I send you samples of our product and get your opinion about our product, Aethern… http://www.aethern.com

    My CEO is coming to New York November 26 to December 10. Would be very interesting to meet for coffee, breakfast, lunch, dinner, whatever works for you. If you have time, of course, given your schedule…

    Take care, and hope we can connect. Paul Vella, Partner/ BOP USA Inc. Aethern Nutricosmetics

    Reply
  2. tara
    December 15, 2016 at 8:37 am (5 months ago)

    Hello! Which serum with c and e do you like best? Which retinoid and otc retinol do you like best? And finally which hyaluronic acid do you like best?

    Reply
    • Joyce
      December 19, 2016 at 1:13 pm (5 months ago)

      Hi! I’ve heard great things about the SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, which is on my wishlist this Christmas! For retinoids I like prescription strength retinoids; I’m currently using tretinoin 0.025% cream every other night. For HA, Skinmedica has a great hydrating complex with tons of hyaluronic acid. More on these products in this Dermatologist beauty picks blogpost here.

      Reply
  3. Ethel Rose
    January 21, 2017 at 4:48 pm (4 months ago)

    Hi Dr.! Should Tretinoin be applied before or after moisturizer? Thanks!

    Reply
    • Joyce
      January 21, 2017 at 6:38 pm (4 months ago)

      Ideally before (medicines should go on closest to the skin) but for my patients who get too much irritation I have them mix their tretinoin with moisturizer or serum

      Reply
  4. Su
    March 19, 2017 at 7:48 am (2 months ago)

    Was wondering if you had any more information on the different sizes of hyaluronic acids, such as in this article: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3970829/
    is this result scientifically solid? And if so, are there any products that take advantage of it?

    Also, I’d love to hear from you and other dermatologists you interview about body skincare products and regimens as well. (I have perpetually crocodile skin.)

    Reply
    • Joyce
      March 31, 2017 at 11:21 am (2 months ago)

      Hi Su, thanks for leaving this comment! I did a pubmed search and there are other studies in the literature that describe increased efficacy with smaller molecular weight hyaluronic acid (one here: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22052267). I don’t know of products that take advantage of this at the moment; perhaps they are still in development. If I find any more information I will definitely share! I write often about skincare regimens from myself and from other dermatologists I work with. Check out some of the posts here: http://www.teawithmd.com/category/beauty/expert-beauty-picks/

      Reply

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